derbyrules

Demolition Derby
Rules & Regulations

2008

RULES

NOW POSTED
BELOW

Lee County Rules for 2008

Saturday, July 12, 2008 – 7:00 p.m.

fair board members in charge of derby:
Terry Moeller (319) 469-6016
Les Roth (319) 835-5198

For questions on car preparations contact:
Travis Kramer (319) 795-2804   (80’s & newer and the old iron class)
Chad Stuecker (319)795-3948    (compacts and trucks)

CLASSES:

Old Iron    1st $1000,    2nd $650,    3rd $375,    4th $250,    5th $150
80’s and Newer    1st $1000,    2nd $650,    3rd $375,    4th $250,    5th 150
Compacts    1st $750,    2nd $500,    3rd $350,    4th $150,    5th $75
Trucks    1st $700,    2nd $400,    3rd $150

All cars and trucks must be thru the line and inspected by 5:30. Be early & on time or you will not run. Gates
open at 2:00.

NOTE

Rules and inspectors are new this year! We are going back to the basics and as stock as possible in all the
classes. Fair board wants the average Joe to have just as much chance to win as the seasoned veteran. So
read the rules and abide by them. We will be firm but fair! GOOD LUCK!

First and foremost: NO PLATING OF THE FRAMES OR BODIES, NO CEMENT, and NO
BUILT SUB-FRAMES. Yeh you!

GENERAL RULES

1)        All rules will be followed or you will not run!
2)        If car does not pass inspection you will be given one chance to fix or change what is wrong and come
back thru inspection. (once)
3)        Drivers must be 18 yrs of age and have a valid drivers. Ages 16 & 17 must have a notarized permission
slip and some form of drivers licence.
4)        The person who signs in the car must be the driver for the event.
5)        Drivers must wear seatbelt, helmet, and eye protection of some sort at all times. (long sleeve shirts & fire
suits are recommended) All drivers must sign the waiver & entry form before competing.
6)        Drivers must remain in the vehicle with seatbelt, helmet, and eye protection on until notified by an official
that it is safe to exit.
7)        Do not hit the driver’s door! Sometimes it happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be
disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield. You will be disqualified for repeated use.
8)        No sandbagging or holding.
9)        You must make an aggressive hit/contact within 60 seconds. You will be given 1 minute for restarts and
for hang-ups.
10)        If you have 2 fires of any kind that require extinguished, you will be disqualified.
11)        No covering the underside of your car with mud. No painting, undercoating, or greasing of the frames. If
you do, you will not be inspected and you will not run.
12)        No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it to an idle.
13)        No alcohol in the pits. Any driver or crew member caught with alcohol will be disqualified.
14)        Cars are subject to re-inspection prior to any prize money being handed out.
15)        All drivers & crew members must attend the drivers meeting.
16)        Any questions or controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
17)        Any questions give us a call first. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it.
18)        Officials decision is final!
19)        Hoods must be opened for inspection.

GENERAL CAR PREPARATIONS (applies to all the classes)

1)        All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in rules. (THIS MEANS NO PLATING OF THE
FRAMES OR BODIES, NO CEMENT, and NO BUILT SUB-FRAMES)
2)        All glass, plastic, chrome, pot metal and interior must be removed.
3)        All decking in station wagons must be removed.
4)        Clean all glass and junk out of the bottom of the doors and trunk.
5)        All flammable materials must be removed except for safety padding & drivers seat.
6)        No mud, fresh painting,undercoating, or greasing of the frames.
7)        Tires no bigger than 15”. No split rims. Foam filled or doubled tires OK- we don’t want any flats. Valve
stem protectors OK.
8)        You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. Over-flow coolant hose must point down.
9)        All cars must have working brakes.
10)        A-arms, ball joints, and tie rods must remain stock.
11)        All trialer hitches and bracing must be removed.
12)        Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank, or well made fuel cell, and it must be
properly secured & covered with a rubber mat. (no carpet or cloth) NO GAS CANS! Plastic gas tanks must be
covered with a metal shield. Fuel line must be properly secured. No fuel lines hanging under the car. (keep
them away from the exhaust). Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in center of car. If you need to use the org.
tank, do to the fuel injection system, you will be allowed to. Just make sure it is properly secured and covered. If
you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch. – so when car shuts off, it
shuts off.
13)        Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
14)        Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard (close to transmission). They must be properly
secured and covered.
15)        No distributor protectors. You may cut a hole in the firewall.
16)        For driver’s protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost. You must
also have a windshield bar. (from the roof to the dash)
17)        All vehicles must have a roof sign displaying their number. (minimum 15x15) You must also paint your
number in bright, contrasting colors on both, the drivers door and the front passenger door. This is required for
judging & recognition.

COMPACT CARS

Prize money: 1st $750,   2nd $500,   3rd $350,   4th $150,   5th $75

1)        Any car that has a wheelbase of 106 inches or less and came factory with a 4 cyl. engine.
2)        You may run a 6 cyl. engine but it must be a car that came factory with a 4 cyl. engine. ( ex: Chevy
Celebrity, Ford Fairmont, etc.)
3)        No Pacers, Gremlins, AMC’s etc.
4)        You may run a 4wd car, but you may only run it in 2wd. (must remove the rear drive shaft etc)
5)        You may weld the doors, trunks, and hatches solid (on the outside only). You may use filler rod, (no
bigger than 3/8 in diameter), or flat stock, ( no wider than 3 inches and no thicker than 1/4 inch), to do so.
6)        If you do not weld your doors, trunks, or hatches, you may use #9 wire or chain no larger than 3/8. (4
places per seam)
7)        Hoods must open for inspection.
8)        You may bolt your trunk down thru the drip rails using 3/8 or smaller bolts/all-thread. (10 places)
9)        You may fold your trunk decks over, but 60% of the deck must be in the factory position.
10)        You may lay your trunk lid on the trunk floor and wire it down with #9 wire in 4 places. (3 loops)
11)        No metal straps or wire from the trunk lid (or tailgate) to the rear bumper.
12)        You may bolt the hood and trunk outer skins to the inner structure using 1/4 bolts.
13)        Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire.
14)        You are allowed up to 6 hood bolts, no larger than 1/2 inch. You must have at least 4 and they must
be sheet metal to sheet metal only. Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick.
15)        After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max)
16)        Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used. No homemade
bumpers or brackets. You may weld, or bolt, (or both) the bumper brackets, or towers, to the frame. You may
weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to the shock towers. You may
collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them around & weld them. You
may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper frame itself. No adding
metal. Just use the welder.
17)        You may not weld the bumper to the body.
18)        ABSOLUTELY NO EXTENDING THE BUMPER MOUNTS INTO THE FRAME USING SOLID ROUND
STOCK, PIPE, OR SQUARE TUBING!
19)        Do not weld on the frame seams or frame itself. No plating of the frame or body.
20)        You may bolt the floor seams together on the inside of the car using 1/4 bolts.
21)        You may cut your wheel wells out for clearance and bolt them back together using 3/8 or smaller bolts.
(5 plcs)
22)        You may weld your rearend.
23)        You may foam fill or double your tires.
24)        Suspension must be stock heighth. Leaf springs must be stock. You may reclamp springs. (4 clamps
per spring- homemade or factory). Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4 inch.You may put spacers in
sagging coil springs to get your heighth. You may wire coil springs in to prevent them from falling out.
25)        For drivers protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost. (No larger
than 4 inches in diameter) You must also have a windshield bar. (from the roof to the dash) You may also run a
bar across your dash. You may connect the dash bar to the bar behind your seat on the inside of the front
doors only. No kickers. You may run a roll-over bar (roll loop), but it can not be welded or bolted to, through, or
around the frame.You may run a plate on the outside of drivers door, but it may not be wider than 6 inches and
it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams.

OLD IRON

Prize money: 1st $1000,   2nd 650,   3rd $375,   4th $250,   5th $150

1)        All general rules & general car preparations apply.
2)        Any American made sedan or station wagon may run. No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older
Imperials or Imperial sub-frames. No 4X4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc. NO SEDAGONS or
WEDGE CARS!
3)        No welding on the frames or body other than what is stated below.
4)        You may weld the doors on both the outside and the inside. Weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld 5 inches,
skip 5 inches etc. Weld the trunk and tailgate on the outside only. You may use filler rod, (no bigger than 3/8 in
diameter), or flat stock, (no wider than 3 inches, no thicker than 1/4 inch, and of course no longer than 5
inches), to do so.
5)        No welding of the body seams on the inside of the car.
6)        You may bolt your trunk down thru the drip rails using 3/8 or smaller bolts/all-thread. (10 places)
7)        You may fold your trunk decks over, but 60% of the deck must be in the factory position.
8)        You may lay your trunk lid on the trunk floor and either wire it down with #9 wire in 4 places             (3
loops), or bolt it down (using no bigger than 1 inch bolts/all-thread) in 4 places. These may go thru the frame,
but don’t weld them to the frame. Washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. Leave these loose until after
inspection so we can look in between the trunk lid and the floor.
9)        No metal straps or wire from the trunk lid (or tailgate) to the rear bumper.
10)        You may cut your wheel wells out for clearance and bolt them back together, using no larger than 3/8
dia bolts, in 5 places.
11)        You may bolt the hood and trunk outer skins to the inner structure using 1/4 bolts.
12)        You may weld the top frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward. The weld may not be any wider
than 1/2 inch. DO NOT WELD THE BOTTOM SIDE.
13)        Buicks, Olds, & Pontiacs may fill the crush hole. (The large hole in the frame behind the radiator
support) This must be a butt fit and it must be a one pass weld only. No over-lapping.
14)        You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but DO NOT weld the cut.
15)        You may remove all the body mounts and sinch the body down against the frame. DO NOT weld the
body to the frame. You may use up to 3/4 inch bolts. You may add two body mounts in the rear arches, but they
must pass thru the factory frame holes.
16)        You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only.Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches
beyond the rust. NO PATCHING OF THE FRAMES!
17)        Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used. No homemade
bumpers or brackets. You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to
the shock towers. You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them
around & weld them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper
frame itself. No adding metal. Just use the welder.
18)        You may not weld the bumper to the body.
19)        If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
20)        Use motor and tranny of choice. Motor must be in the stock location. You may weld (or chain) the motor
& tranny in place, but don’t strengthen the frame.Weld the motor mounts to the engine cradle, NOT TO THE
FRAME!
21)        No distributor protectors. You may cut a hole in the firewall.
22)        Use rearend of choice. Must be 5 lug (no 8 bolt rearends made into 5 lug rearends) NO 3/4 TON
REARENDS OR FLOATERS. Welded or locked rearends are recommended.
23)        You may tilt your rearend, but you must start out with stock trailing arms. NO HOME-MADE ARMS.
24)        SUSPENSION:     You may leaf your cars in this class. Wagons may run up to 9 leafs.Sedans may run
up to 7 leafs. NO RAPTOR FAB or HOMEMADE LEAF SPRINGS. (Leafs no thicker than 5/16)
25)        No flat sprung cars! Leaf pack must have, at the very minimum, a 2 inch arch.
26)        You may reclamp your springs. (4 clamps per spring- homemade or factory). Homemade clamps cannot
exceed 2x4x1/4 inch.
27)        U-bolts-7/16 max. You must use the stock mounting plates.
28)        Rear shackle must mount within 6 inches, of the stock location,of the rear bumper bracket. Rear
shackle may not be larger than 4”X 6”X 3/8 and it must be bolted thru the frame, not welded solid. (it must be
able to move)
29)        You may duct tape your leafs after inspection.
30)        IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGUARDING THE LEAF SPRING CONVERSION, CALL TRAVIS or
CHAD.
31)        If you are running a coil spring car and it is sagging; you may change the coils, double the coils, or add
coil spacers to the coils to get your heighth.
32)        Car must have a working suspension and bounce freely. So if you chain your rearends in, (which you
may) you must leave enough slack for the suspension to work. NO SOLID SHOCKS!
33)        Hood must open for inspection.
34)        Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire.
35)        You are allowed up to 6 hood bolts, up to 1 inch in diameter. The front two can run from the hood thru
the frame, at the radiator support.(but not welded to the frame) The others must be sheet metal to sheet metal
only. Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick.
36)        After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max)
37)        For drivers protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost. (No larger
than 4 inches in diameter) You must also have a windshield bar. (from the roof to the dash) You may also run a
bar across your dash. You may connect the dash bar to the bar behind your seat on the inside of the front
doors only. No kickers. You may run a roll-over bar (roll loop), but it can not be welded or bolted to, through, or
around the frame.You may run a plate on the outside of drivers door, but it may not be wider than 6 inches and
it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams.
38)        Hard top cars may weld a bar /strap from the roof to the door post.

80’S and NEWER

Prize money: 1st $1000,   2nd 650,   3rd $375,   4th $250,   5th $150

1)        All general rules & general car preparations apply.
2)        Any 1980 or newer American made sedan or station wagon may run. No 4X4’s, ambulances, hearses,
trucks, limousines, etc. NO SEDAGONS or WEDGE CARS!
3)        No coil to leaf spring conversions in this class!
4)        No welding on the frames or body other than what is stated below.
5)        You may weld the doors, trunk, and tailgate on the outside only. Weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld 5
inches, skip 5 inches etc. You may use filler rod, (no bigger than 3/8 in diameter), or flat stock, (no wider than 3
inches, no thicker than 1/4 inch, and of course no longer than 5 inches), to do so.
6)        No welding of the doors or body seams on the inside of the car.
7)        If you do not weld your doors, trunks, or tailgates, you may use #9 wire or chain no larger than 3/8. (4
places per seam)
8)        You may bolt your trunk down thru the drip rails using 3/8 or smaller bolts/all-thread. (10 places)
9)        You may fold your trunk decks over, but 60% of the deck must be in the factory position.
10)        You may lay your trunk lid on the trunk floor and either wire it down with #9 wire in 4 places             (3
loops), or bolt it down (using no bigger than 1 inch bolts/all-thread) in 4 places. These may go thru the frame,
but don’t weld them to the frame. Washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick. Leave these loose until after
inspection so we can look in between the trunk lid and the floor.
11)        No metal straps or wire from the trunk lid (or tailgate) to the rear bumper.
12)        You may cut your wheel wells out for clearance and bolt them back together, using no larger than 3/8
dia bolts, in 5 places.
13)        Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used. No homemade
bumpers or brackets. You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to
the shock towers. You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them
around & weld them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper
frame itself. No adding metal. Just use the welder.
14)        You may not weld the bumper to the body.
15)        If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
16)        You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but DO NOT weld the cut.
17)        You may remove all the body mounts and sinch the body down against the frame. DO NOT weld the
body to the frame. You may use up to 3/4 inch bolts. You may add two body mounts in the rear arches, but they
must pass thru the factory frame holes.
18)        You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only.Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches
beyond the rust. NO PATCHING OF THE FRAMES!
19)        Use motor and tranny of choice. Motor must be in the stock location. You may weld (or chain) the motor
& tranny in place, but don’t strengthen the frame.Weld the motor mounts to the engine cradle, NOT TO THE
FRAME!
20)        No distributor protectors. You may cut a hole in the firewall.
21)        Use rearend of choice. Must be 5 lug (no 8 bolt rearends made into 5 lug rearends) NO 3/4 TON
REARENDS OR FLOATERS. Welded or locked rearends are recommended.
22)        You may tilt your rearend, but you must start out with stock trailing arms. NO HOME-MADE ARMS.
23)        Car must have a working suspension and bounce freely. NO SOLID SHOCKS!
24)        To get your factory heighth back on sagging cars; coil spring cars may change the coils, double the
coils, or add coil spacers to the coils. Factory leaf spring 80 or newer cars, may add a leaf. (but the total
number or leafs may not be more than 5)
25)        Hood must open for inspection.
26)        Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire.
27)        You may bolt the hood and trunk outer skins to the inner structure using 1/4 bolts.
28)        You are allowed up to 6 hood bolts, up to 1 inch in diameter. The front two can run from the hood thru
the frame, at the radiator support. (but not welded to the frame) The others must be sheet metal to sheet metal
only. Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick.
29)        After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire. (4 loops max)
30)        For drivers protection, you must have a bar behind your seat from doorpost to doorpost. (No larger
than 4 inches in diameter) You must also have a windshield bar. (from the roof to the dash) You may also run a
bar across your dash. You may connect the dash bar to the bar behind your seat on the inside of the front
doors only. No kickers. You may run a roll-over bar (roll loop), but it can not be welded or bolted to, through, or
around the frame.You may run a plate on the outside of drivers door, but it may not be wider than 6 inches and
it may not exceed 6 inches past the door seams.
31)        Hard top cars may weld a bar /strap from the roof to the door post.
32)        Reminder NO WELDING ON THE FRAMES OR FRAME SEAMS. No painting, undercoating, or greasing
of the frames. Do not cover the underside of your car with mud.

TRUCKS

Prize money: 1st $700,   2nd $400,   3rd $150

1)        All general rules & general car preparations apply.
2)        Any 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton truck, van, suburban, blazer, or bronco may run. It may be a 4X4, but you may only
run in 2 wheel drive. (you must remove a drive shaft)
3)        No welding on, or plating of, the frame.
4)        You may weld your doors and tailgate solid. (on both the outside and inside)
5)        You may remove all cab and bed mounts and sinch both down against the frame. DO NOT weld the cab
or bed to the frame. You may add 4 additional mounting bolts, to both the cab and bed, to secure them to the
frame. Bolts may be no larger than 1 inch in diameter. Washers no larger than 5x5x1/2.
6)        You may weld your bed to the back of your cab.(filler material no thicker than 1/4 inch)
7)        You may patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only.Do not cut the rust out. Weld 2 inches
beyond the rust. NO PATCHING OF THE FRAMES!
8)        You are allowed up to 6 hood bolts, up to 1 inch in diameter. The front two can run from the hood thru
the frame, at the radiator support. (but not welded to the frame) The others must be sheet metal to sheet metal
only. Hood washers can be no bigger than 5x5x1/2 thick.
9)        Hood must open for inspection.
10)        Hood must have at least a 12 inch hole cut in it, in case of a fire.
11)        After inspection, you may wire your hood down to the bumper in 4 plcs with #9 wire (4 loops max)
12)        Any automotive bumper/brackets may be used. No aftermarket or homemade bumpers allowed.
13)        Melt your bumpers on good! No plating or gussets when doing so. DO NOT BEEF UP THE FRAME!
You may weld the bumper brackets & shocks to the bumper. You may weld the shocks to the shock towers.
You may collapse the shocks & weld them solid. You may trim the bumper ends, or fold them around & weld
them. You may weld the bumper seams, and you may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper frame itself. No
adding metal. Just use the welder.
14)        If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
15)        You may not weld the bumper to the body.
16)        A four sided protective cage is recommended. (nothing attached to the frame) You may run a plate on
the outside of drivers door, but it may not be wider than 6 inches and it may not exceed 6 inches past the door
seams.